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Bieszczady

Updated: Sep 16, 2022



When it comes to hiking in Poland, probably Tatra mountains are the first name area to pop up. However, Bieszczady might be the best for hikers who don't like the huge crowd.


Bieszczady mountains run from the extreme south-east of Poland and north-east of Slovakia through to western Ukraine.


Even to Poles, Bieszczady has been known as a hippie place. There is even a polish phrase for people who sold the house and move to Bieszczady looking for a quiet life surrounded by mountains! (Zakapior Bieszczadzki)


This is the blog about our hiking in Bieszczady.




WHY

  • Less busy than Tatra mountains and has a lot of trails.

  • The highest peak is 1,375m. The mountain range runs quite wide, a perfect spot to enjoy the ridge walk.

  • You can enjoy the view of coloured mountains in autumn.

  • The trails vary from beginner-friendly to challenging.

  • Comparatively, cheap to eat and drink.



HOW TO GET TO BIESZCZADY


We took a train from Gdansk to Warsaw and a night bus from Warsaw to Ustryki Gorne.

For bus, check out this website (Flixbus).

You can only reach Sanok by train so you need to use a bus unless you have a car.


By the way, it was my first night bus experience in Europe. I've done it many times in Japan, not my favourite way to travel but I can just sleep.... I was wrong.


Well, the bus was very clean and seat size was okay too, BUT I felt like being in a party which is almost over, where most people left and only a few people chatting while the music is still going on...


The two bus drivers chatted all the way till morning and some cool party music kept playing. I would have liked it 10 years ago but I am over that haha


So basically I couldn't sleep at all.


I'm sure not all the night buses are like this in Poland but I think I would avoid the night bus the next time haha



ACCOMMODATION


We found am accommodation in Wołosate.

Ustrzyki Górne is the main are for accommodation but Wołosate is closer to the trailheads and quiet so I recommend Wołosate.


I had dinner at the same bar&restaurant (Pizzeria "W górach") every night, they have very good pizza. It is the only bar in Wołosate so wouldn't be difficult to find it ;)


After taking a power nap, we started hiking to the highest peak in Bieszaczady, Tarnica. (You need an entrance fee. )



  • 10.68 km

  • 611 m elevation gain.

  • 3hours 30min

  • No water resource.

  • You need to pay an entrance fee. Surprisingly, Cards are accepted.

  • Easy hike, I saw some kids too。

  • The first 3/4 is in the forest, and the last 1/4 is ridge walk.

  • It was super windy. Bieszczady is known to be windy so you have to be ready for that.

  • We saw a beautiful sunset.




  • 34.22 km

  • 1,449 m elevation gain

  • 10:08:30

  • No water resource.

  • We had a buffet-style breakfast at a restaurant called "Zajazd Pod Caryńską" in Ustrzyki Górne. It was my first time to try polish cuisine "Żurek"which is a soup made of soured rye flour and meat. It was the only place open to eat but we loaded up with lots of food.

  • Our plan was to walk from mountain to mountain. (ridge walk)

  • It was super windy.

  • Our initial plan was to walk by the border with Ukraine after Wielka Rawka but we noticed that it was getting darker than we expected. And we just realized that it was the first day of wintertime. Reluctantly, we decided to start descending.

  • There are coloured poles to indicate the border. There were no guards but crossing the border in the mountain could give you some trouble so it is better not to try that.


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